Summer Smoke



fellow teachers



October 28^th was the official end of the school year here in Moz which means I survived my first year teaching in Portuguese. It’s kind of hard to believe actually. I so clearly remember my first day of classes, the butterflies in my stomach and the doubts I had in my language skills. Would the kids like me? Would they adapt to my teaching style? Would they even understand me? After hearing from 14ers that most kids won’t show up the first week I decided to give a lesson on the scientific method rather than jump into required material. I was greeted with lots of blank stares and silence. But slowly that improved. They did adapt and were soon making comments, correctly my Portuguese writing and sassing off. I squashed the latter two habits and we found a comfortable level of interaction. Just like 8^th graders in the U.S., these kids just want to have fun, be with their friends and be popular. Some are real smart and interested in learning; some are simply in class because they are supposed to be there. I learned that I had to identify the dedicated ones and generally teach to them – I can’t make everyone happy and if they aren’t going to try it’s their loss. They tolerated my eccentricities and “strange” teaching style but I had no idea how they felt about me until I returned from my America trip and was left with only two turmas.  Those two groups gave me a standing ovation when I announced it and the students from the other three were disappointed and wondered why I was leaving them. I felt bad for them but was feeling really good about myself! And now, three trimesters and the human body later, my grades are done, exams are returned and students are asking me if I’ll teach them again next year (I would love to stay with them but 9^th grade biology is a whole year of plants and I think I would go insane teaching that). So one year down and one to go. Who knows what adventures it will bring!

Unfortunately, the end of October also means we’re a little bit closer to saying goodbye to the 14ers. Heath PCVs always COS (Close Of Service) first so some of them might already be down in Maputo but the Education volunteers will be headed that way real soon. I realize that it’s only goodbye until we’re all back in Americaland but these folks are a key part of my Peace Corps service. These were the people that answered all of our questions, encouraged us when we were down and welcomed us into this exclusive group of crazies that chose to leave family and friends to give everything we have to a bunch of strangers in a third world country. I can’t imagine my experience without them and now I’m moving into my second year knowing they won’t be here anymore. But at the same time, a new group of volunteers is settling into training and maybe I can fill that role for some of them. I was selected to help out the first week of PST for Moz17 and it was amazing to be in Namaacha and be on the other side of the situation. I was the “experienced” PCV peppered with questions, offering advice and encouraging them through tough moments. What a difference a year makes! I of course promoted the Central region and have my fingers crossed that PC sends some of them our way.

In other news, we had our English Theater competition last weekend here in Chimoio and had 15 schools from around Manica and Sofala provinces presenting their plays. The theme was ‘Choose Your Future’ and since it’s a PEPFAR funded project they all have an HIV/AIDS education/prevention aspect.  The Dombe group didn’t win any awards but they did an amazing job, had a lot of fun and are hopefully proud of themselves for how much they improved. Panda finally made it back to The Dombe after a particularly lengthy adventure in transportation and is doing well. She’s a bit of a diva and a pain in the ass but I love her. I have to remind myself daily that she is still very young and will probably grow out of some of her less than endearing qualities. She finally has a little doghouse and is sleeping outside which is saving me a lot of floor mopping.  One of my neighbors also got a puppy (a beautiful white male) and since Panda getting pregnant is an inevitability, Mona and I have decided that we’d be okay with that union. They would be adorable puppies! And I’m officially taking over as the Provincial Coordinator for Science Fair but won’t have to worry about that for a couple months. Right now my plan is to enjoy my summer vacation, see more of this beautiful country, prepare for my mom and Marv’s visit in December and try to avoid getting heatstroke!

Summer Smoke  - Girl Talk

A Day in the Life of a Dombe PCV

*As I've said, my day to day life is not terribly fascinating so I apologize if you're too bored to finish this...

3:00am – Woken up by roosters crowing outside window. Insert earplugs.

I'm almost ready to kill my first chicken
and this rooster may be my victim

5-7:00am – Wake up but avoid moving, so you don’t start sweating, until you decide if it’s too hot to sleep anymore. Go for a run if you’re feeling particularly motivated,

7-10am – Clean house and/or wash clothes while the shade is still present on your side of the house. Eat a small breakfast of crackers or yesterday’s leftovers (this is risky at this time of year due to the ever present heat but usually works out fine and if you’re real lucky these leftovers might get you through lunch as well).

10:00am – Bath #1 (glorious cold water bucket bath). Immediately start sweating again.

10:15-12am – Sit inside in your capulana for as long as possible to avoid clothing. This is a good time for reading and journaling.

12-5:00pm – Plant yourself on an esteira in the biggest, most solid piece of shade you can find with a pillow and lots of water. Here’s where you have options: read a good book, take a nap, play with/talk with/or ignore the crianças depending on your mood, lesson plan or grade tests and TPC (homework).Remember to periodically check for the shifting shade; don’t want to get caught out in the sun. Feeling social? Visit friends and share their shade instead. If you must, go to school and teach some lessons or proctor an exam.  Bath #2 might fit in there somewhere as well.





5:00pm – Start thinking about dinner but avoid actually doing anything until it starts to get dark and slightly cooler.

(Hours vary at this point)

5-8:00pm – Make and eat a lovely candlelight dinner with your sitemate and discuss life’s many mysteries or gossip about fellow PCVs, Bath #2 or 3 depending on the day’s activities and if you still have some battery power, watch some TV or a movie.

7-9:00pm –Get ready for bed, tuck yourself into your mosquito net and read a bit. Again, try not to move too much to avoid sweating and to cool down.

8:00pm-5 or 6 or 7:00am – Sleep, glorious sleep with a smattering of excitingly vivid, malaria prophylaxis induced dreams.

*This schedule of course varies depending on the time of year and even the day of week. Sometimes, there may even be a trip to the cruzamento or the vila (but let’s be serious, we usually just send the empregado).*

The Essential Portuguese Handbook for Moçambique

If you’re planning a visit to Moçambique (which you all should) or just want to have a bit of Portuguese in your back pocket in case of emergencies, this is the cabula (cheatsheet) you want to bring along (plus I've included pictures from recent adventures!):

My first safari!

Sim – Yes

Não- No

Olá – Hello

Bom dia/boa tarde/boa noite – Good morning/good afternoon/good evening

Como está? – How are you?

Estou bem – I’m good

Tudo bem – (both a question and an answer) How is everything?/Everything is fine

Por favor – Please

Obrigado/a – Thank you (changes with gender of speaker)

De nada – Your welcome

Licensa – Pardon me

Desculpa – Excuse me

Como se chama? – What is your name?

Chamo-me _________  - My name is _________

Coming down the mountains to Dombe

Onde está a casa de banho? – Where is the bathroom?

Estou a pedir _______ - I would like _______

Tem agua/refrescos gelados? – Do you can cold water/sodas?

Tem coke light? – Do you have diet Coke?

Quanto? – How much? (you can simply point to something and ask)

Onde está o parragem? – Where is the bus stop?

Tenho fome/sede – I’m hungry/thirsty

Estou com sono – I’m sleepy

Pode ajudar me? – Can you help me?

Estou a vir – I’m on my way (this could mean ‘I am right around the corner’ or ‘I’ll be there in two hours’ and should be taken with a grain of salt)

The river in Dombe

Quero uma Manica grande – I want a big Manica (type of beer)

Quero um meio frango com salada e batatas – I want half a chicken with salad and french fries

Tem piri-piri? – Do you have hot sauce?

Estes vegetais são limpos? Não quero cólera – Are these vegetables clean? I don’t want cholera

Onde posso encontrar chocolate? – Where can I find chocolate?

Há espacio para meu cabrito em baixo da cadera? – Is there room for my goat under the seat?

Por que há uma galinha aqui? – Why is there a chicken here?

Esta galinha é de quem? – Who’s chicken is this?

Não sou muzungu. Chamo-me _________ - I’m not “muzungu” (a dialect term for white person or foreigner). My name is ________

A que hora é o jogo de futbol? – What time is the soccer game?



a bushbuck in Gorongosa National Park

Deixa-me! – Leave me alone!

Barulho! – Quiet down!

Sai! – Leave!

Liga-me! – Call me!

the floodplain in GNP

Obrigado, mas tenho um(a) namorado(a). Não quero um outro. – Thanks but I have a boy/girlfriend. I don’t want another.

Mas precisa um namorado Moçambicano – But you need a Moçambiquen boyfriend

Um é bom para mim – One is good for me

Voce é casado? – Are you married?

Sim, tenho um marido e dois filhos em casa – Yes, I have a husband and two kids at home

Warthog!

And now you are ready to tackle traveling in Moz. Let me know when you've bought your tickets!


P.S. I got a puppy this weekend in case you need more motivation to visit. She's ridiculously adorable.

The puppies! Panda is the lighter one in the middle
with her head on mom's side

The Bug

A big thing we think and talk about here (especially now that the 14ers are a few months away from their COS) is how it will be to adjust back to life in the States. And since I was just back in June I know firsthand how overwhelming it is, even after just 9 months away. We’re not just on some long vacation over here and can be quite cut off from news, entertainment and the changes in technology, fashion and “what’s hot”. I had my moments of anxiety while visiting Colorado and think I handled them quite well overall, but what I hadn’t considered was how it would be to return to life in Moçambique. I figured that three weeks away wasn’t enough to cause me any stress but I was surprised by my reactions and feelings. It was hard to leave all the people I love again but I was excited to get back here and start working again. I was a bit worried about dealing with my luggage once I got back in country but overall felt good. I arrived back in Chimoio after two days of planes, trains and automobiles (and 10 hours in Frankfurt!) to a gathering of volunteers in town to plan a REDES conference that starts here in a couple days. I was so happy to see my friends again and get a chance to catch up about the last month. I was staying with a volunteer here in the city with hot running water and a comfy bed so it wasn’t like I was immediately thrown back into the mato but I woke up that first night at about 3:30am with this deep feeling of homesickness and sadness in my heart and for a second didn’t remember where I was. Just days before I had been in Colorado with all my family and now I was back across the globe feeling confused and isolated. I had trouble sleeping that first week and often found myself thinking about what I might be doing if I were still in Denver. Like clockwork, I woke up every night at 3:30 with all these conflicting emotions and struggled to get back to sleep. During the day, when I was kept busy, I was fine but during those quiet moments alone in my bed, I was really struggling. And since I’m not real great at dealing with confusing emotions, I simply threw myself into activities and books and school (I read nearly 15 books my first two weeks back thanks to my handy dandy Kindle. This by the way was the best purchase I made stateside.). For a couple days back in Dombe I questioned whether or not I could actually do this for two more years. I was down to four hours a week of teaching and had all this time on my hands and my mind just wondered to all the hard parts of life. It’s not all sunshine and rainbows out in The Dombe but I was used to it and my trip back interrupted my natural order. You’ll never hear me say I regret that trip because I would never have forgiven myself if I missed that valuable time with my family but it was an awkward time to leave. But something we talked a lot about in PST was resiliency and this was my first big test. I wrote in my journal and in e-mails to friends, kept reading like a madman and made sure I spent time everyday outside the house and with friends. And slowly I adjusted back to the slow pace of life in the mato. I finished the trimester and proctored an absurd amount of exams (my Kindle helped me through those moments as well) before venturing out again for some PC related conferences. And now? Sometimes it’s seems like I never went back to Colorado. It seems so far away now that I’m re-immersed into my “real life” but now I can look at the pictures and remember the funny moments without getting sad and just appreciate the experience.



it was hard to leave these loons

And a brief update of other events: I took part in a programming conference in Chimoio with fellow PCVs and our Mozambiquen counterparts (and by take part I mean I spent two days in bed with a stomach virus), visited my wonderful friend Amanda at her site in Angonia in Tete province, become a Glee fanatic and watched both seasons in just over two days, had a semi-scary encounter with some Malawi immigration officers, was selected for our Peer Support Network and flew to Maputo for some well-paced, warm and fuzzy type training (think happy notes, massage circles and lots of talking about our feelings and experiences) and then returned to Chimoio for the tail end of our REDES (Raparigas Em Desenvolvemento, Educação e Saude) conference. Everything was a smashing success and now I’m preparing to head back to site to start the third trimester. We’re closing in on our one year in country mark (my group arrived at the end of September last year) and I am having trouble wrapping my head around that idea especially because it means my friends from Moz14 will be leaving in a couple months. I suppose us 15ers will have to step up and be the “cool, experience PCVs”. I should start working on that.


With two of my students and my
counterpart at Feira da Ciencias



Cabeca do Velho near Chimoio





The Bug - Dire Straits (Thank you for laying it out for us Mark Knopfler)

Awake My Soul

The last month has been absolutely insane. My last week in Dombe and Chimoio in May was all preparation and anticipation. My trip in Americaland was finally upon me and the anxiety was starting to get to me. How would it be to visit Denver after nine months in Moçambique? How would I handle the reverse culture shock so widely talked about? Infinite questions ran through my head as I started the first leg of my journey.  I’ve traveled a lot since starting college and find flying relaxing. I can sleep almost anywhere and after traveling in country by chapa I was looking forward to 15 hours in a comfy airplane seat with someone bringing me my food and drinks and a personal TV screen to keep me entertained. I ended up sitting by a church group from Akron that was returning from a two week mission trip in Moz. They are doing some great sustainable work with two villages in the south of the country and the minister and I had some good discussions about foreign aid and personal spirituality. I didn’t end up sleeping much as I felt obligated to take advantage of the vast entertainment library in front of me. After landing in NYC at 6:00am, I promptly found a McDonalds and enjoyed my first of many fountain diet cokes (breakfast of champions). And as many of you can imagine my first stop in Denver was Chipotle.

I don’t think Denver has changed all that much since I left last September but being inundated with so many people (such diversity), traffic and options was a bit ridiculous. Going to a restaurant here in Moz is a crap shoot. You can’t get excited about anything on the menu until you speak with the waiter because usually only three things are actually available. But in America, you can basically have anything your little heart desires anywhere you go. It’s amazing! Speaking of options, who’s bright idea was it to introduce cafeteria/self-service style concessions at movie theaters? The theater at the Aurora Mall provided me with my first truly overwhelming experience that first Sunday as I spun circles in the aisle trying to figure out where I got my popcorn, if I could get my own drink and where in God’s name do I pay for this stuff? I almost walked out and sent my mom in. I was later assured that any normal person would be caught off guard by this new-fangled idea and felt a bit better. Those first days progressed smoothly as I got back behind the wheel of old Remily, caught up with Mem and Thomas, played a little indoor futebol and spent lots of quality time with family. Final preparations for my brother’s wedding started as the Virginia family came into town and a fair amount of good wine and beer was drunk.  The wedding itself was beautiful (I officially have a sister and nieces and a nephew now!) and the reception was quite the party. Ashlee looked gorgeous, the kids were adorable and I am beyond proud of my brother and how much he has grown over the past years.  I could go on forever recalling all the details but will end by saying that it was the perfect ceremony for my brother, Ashlee and their family and that I am so happy I could be there.

The next couple of days were spent with the VA family and the kids as the newlyweds jetted off on their honeymoon. I was still on a two hot showers a day kick and was nearly always stuffing myself full of lovely foods and drinks unavailable in the Dombe. The week ended with what is probably the best surprise I’ve ever had as Rachel and Kristin flew in from NC and Florida for the weekend! I thought we were going to the airport to pick up my uncle and his family (they actually were arriving later that day) and was beyond shocked to see these girls emerge from the escalator.  They had been planning this with my mom since March and due to their general lack of secret keeping skills had been forbidden to speak with me. I was of course wondering why my best friends were avoiding me during my short time in the states and was slightly offended. It was of course all worth it to have them with me for those couple of days. I got to show off my home state a bit, spoil Thomas some more as he turned the big one year old and celebrate my birthday with my favorite people in a low-key little gathering. It was an incredible weekend to say the least!

Week three was another hodgepodge of family, friends, food and wedding preparation as we counted down to my dad and Mary’s ceremony on Saturday. My uncle Steve cooked Thursday for Mary’s birthday and everyone was later mesmerized by stories from Mary’s mom Hildegard and her time in Germany during and after WWll and how she came to the U.S. to be a nanny as an 18 year old knowing no English. I could have listened all night and can’t wait to hear more once I return. On Friday most of us helped set up the reception hall at Regis and had the wedding rehearsal before enjoying my “special” spaghetti and meat sauce for dinner (it’s basically straight from the jar with tons of ground beef). Again lots of wine was drunk (have you noticed a pattern here?) and stories were swapped. The wedding was outside in a garden at Regis University where my dad and Mary both work and were they met. It was another beautiful ceremony that really embodied their relationship and lives of the bride and groom. I got to catch up with a lot of people for the final time at the reception and had some teary goodbyes in the parking lot after the Rosser side of the wedding party closed down the bar! (I'm lacking pictures from my Dad's wedding at this point but I'll get them eventually).





I just love other people's babies!



So much more happened in between those major events that I can’t really remember them all. Mom and I saw Mumford & Sons at the Fillmore (check out Matthew & the Atlas and Nathaniel Rateliff if you’re a fan of Mumford) and I was Mary’s date for Rock of Ages at the theater. I ate either 10 or 11 Chipotle burritos, had a wonderful sushi night with mom, Susan and Jordan, got to the zoo and aquarium, spent a couple hours in awe of super markets, Target and Costco and spent as much time as I could with Emmah, Amelia and Luke (shockingly, none of them wanted to return to Africa with me). Basically I had an incredible time and it went by way too fast. I had left all of my packing for Sunday morning but it kept me busy and wasn’t able to dread the idea of leaving all day. I was actually excited about getting back here but leaving my family is never easy.

And now I am safely back in Moçambique trying to mentally prepare myself to return to the Dombe. The culture shock hasn’t been too bad aside from my lack of patience for stupidly slow lines and inefficiency but I’ll get over that quickly and slip back into my life. Plus I’ve got lots of pictures and great memories to help me through those rough first days in the mato!                                                                                                                                    

Awake My Soul - Mumford & Sons (I'm particularly fond of the line "In these bodies we will live, in these bodies we will die. Where you invest your love, you invest your life")

Here et al

Somehow we've made it to June. I have no idea where April and May went but I'm not complaining because in about two days I will be back in Colorado for three glorious, action packed weeks with family and friends. I've got two weddings, a couple of birthdays (including my own), out of town family catch up with, new babies to meet, wine and good beer to drink and a whole lot of food to eat (the first stop after the airport is Chipotle). It will be amazing and exhausting and wonderful for sure.

I am obviously excited but as the last few weeks disappeared I have become more and more nervous. Maybe it’s more anxious than nervous but it’s that odd feeling in your stomach and restless nights but I associate with public speaking and major life changes. I have definitely had some of those changes the past eight months and this trip will be the first opportunity to see how these events have changed me as a person. I'm too close to it all here to see clearly but I imagine I'm not the same person that got on the plane in Denver last September. Aside from that, I'm also a bit nervous to be back in "Americaland" with all its noise, traffic, options and luxury. I've spent the last eight months in small cement houses, living out of my suitcase more or less, without electricity, taking bucket baths, using a latrine (it's not all bad!), cooking over carvão and traveling in less than ideal conditions. But that's my life and I love it. I love my little house, my housemate, my students, my friends, my neighbors and even that little town of Dombe 5km up the road. Its home.

But as this trip gets closer and closer I’m back wrestling with those familiar feelings of leaving one home for another. Colorado will always be home for me. My immediate family is there, some of my best friends are there, and my beloved Rocky Mountains are there. But Wilmington quickly became home when I started college. I had family there, new best friends and the Atlantic Ocean that has a permanent hold on my heart. Moving between the two was often hard as I felt torn between two very different places that I loved and where I felt safe. And then what did I do? I threw Maine into the equation as my restless nature kicked back in. This third home lacks that blood family tie but is by no means less important. I got more friends, more amazing experiences and new knowledge that set me off on my current path and to a new home on the other side of the world. A new home that the first three helped prepare me for because I know that at any given moment I have family and friends all over those great states of ours wishing me well, praying for my safety and keeping me in their hearts. And really what else could I ask for?

So back to the main dilemma here: what is it going to be like to go back to Colorado after eight months in Moçambique? Overwhelming? Probably. Hectic? Most definitely. Educational? On a personal level, yea. Worth the long hours traveling? Without a doubt. I get to be present at my brother’s wedding, my dad’s wedding and my best friend’s son’s first birthday. I get to meet both my cousin’s and one of my oldest and dearest friend’s babies. Throw in my 26^th birthday, a play, a concert, a massage (Gracias a Deus), a pedicure, a haircut, lots and lots of hot showers (hm, so that nice tan I’ve been getting is really a deeply imbedded layer of dirt. Who knew?), Chipotle, diet coke, sushi, wine, Target, washer-dryer cleaned clothes . . . oh I could go on and on with the benefits.

So, when does the plane leave again? Cause I wouldn’t miss this for the world!


Here et al - Ryan Montbleau Band

Kokomo

Somehow we’ve reached May. Not real sure where the past year has gone. A year ago I was working at the Don Lee Center in North Carolina – teaching kids about salt marshes, fish anatomy, pond life and pirates, singing songs about scat and little red wagons, and sailing the Neuse River. And now I’m in Moçambique teaching human biology in Portuguese, catching boleias up and down the country, cooking with carvão and swimming in the Indian Ocean. I use to complain about driving the 15 miles up to road to get to the grocery store or CVS and now it’s a 5 km walk to a very basic outdoor market and at least 4 hours through the mountains in a packed chapa to reach other basic amenities. But you know, it doesn’t seem all that bad now.



Team Central



This past weekend was a holiday for most of the world (Dia dos Trabalhadores, Worker’s Day, the equivalent to Labor Day in the U.S.) so we all had a long weekend at our disposal. Here is PC Moçambique world, that meant Beer Olympics in Vilankulo! More than anything it’s a chance for all of us PVCs spread throughout the country to get together at the beach and catch up. There may or may not have been beer drinking and crazy events involved. What this meant for me was my first opportunity to get to the beach since our Bilene trip last November. And it was way over due. As most of you know, I’m a bit of a beach bum. My friends in college called me a fish and not because I enjoyed studying them. I am perfectly content with a long day on the beach, swimming when I get hot, munching on goldfish and drinking a huge diet coke. I miss those days especially when I’m in Dombe depending whether it would be cooler to sit very very still inside the house to avoid sweating or move outside under a tree and have to deal with the chickens, crianças and bugs. But the weekend was wonderful! I got some beach time in as well and good catch up time with volunteers I rarely get to see. Vilankulo is a beautiful, postcard like place that I will be visiting again very soon! I am again borrowing pictures from Audrey and Hannah because my camera was left behind in Chimoio due to the downpour we left town in.

naturally we had a torch and sang the national
anthem for the opening ceremonies!



a very flat beach and big tidal differences
trap boats at low tide



Not much else exciting to share except that my Colorado trips is now just a month away and I am beyond excited, but starting to get nervous. I can only imagine (but trying hard not to) the reverse culture shock I’ll experience but so many wonderful things will happen in those short couple weeks that I’m sure it will be worth it! I did have an oh so lovely evening that involved Mona and I sleeping in the cab of a truck on the side of the road in the mato but I'm saving that little gem to share in person!

Kokomo - The Beach Boys (this song always comes to mind when I'm at the beach!)

Against All Odds

Looking back over the past month or so, many exciting things have happened in the lives of my friends and family. Two of my fellow MOZ15ers got engaged, my best friend and her husband celebrated nine months with their beautiful baby boy, my brother and my dad have been planning weddings and my cousin brought a gorgeous little girl into this world. Those are big life changes in my book. The most exciting things in my life are sleeping through the night without back pain and being able to sit inside my house during the day. I’m noticing some differences between these two lists of highlights.  When did a cold bottle of water become worthy of a 10km walk in the African heat? How is that a bar of chocolate can make me happier than a kid on Christmas? And all it takes is a hot shower for me to feel “made-up” and “dressy”? How simple my life has become.

Looking back I remember telling myself multiple times that I was going to simplify my life. I specifically remember standing in Rachel Toman’s dorm room in Cornerstone after our freshman year at UNCW – the floor covered in clothes, make-up, shoes and papers. We vowed that we were going to take the opportunity of moving to minimize our lives, to get rid of all the crap we didn’t need. And I really think we tried. But each year I acquired all kinds of stuff that I just couldn’t seem to part with. And now I’m living in a house about the size of that dorm room. I’ve got one suitcase of clothes, a mattress, two boxes of books and other Peace Corps supplies, some basins and buckets, a bike and a water filter. That’s all I really need (although a bed frame would be nice) and sometimes even that seems excessive. I look around at the kids wearing the same dirty clothes they wore the day before and feel bad that I have so many options everyday, that my clothes don’t have holes in them and that sometimes I wish for more clothes simply so I can do laundry less frequently. Peace Corps says that we will live at the level of our community but I often feel awfully wealthy.

The NFL lockout and the government’s almost shutdown are all about money. Yes, the U.S. government is ridiculously in debt and we do need to figure out how to best deal with that, but tell someone here in Moz that the U.S. is several trillion dollars in debt and they will look at you blankly. The people around me can’t even fathom that much money. I was disgusted as I read about the issues between the players and owners before the lockout occurred. These multi-million and billionaires were fighting over more money without any thought for other people affected by their decisions. Rick Reilly’s column a few weeks ago summed it up nicely (and humorously) as to who else is affected by this stalled season (http://espn.go.com/blog/rick-reilly-go-fish/post/_/id/855/nfl-labor-decision-winners-and-losers). And a New York Times op-ed piece (http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/10/opinion/10kristof.html?scp=1&sq=cowardly%20congress&st=cse) about Congress dealing with the budget states it perfectly – we’re dealing with junior high kids with too much power. Petty issues are interfering with more serious matters.

I have a unique perspective out here in the mato but it shouldn’t take a move to Africa to understand what’s going on here.  America is self-centered and selfish. We have access to anything and everything and don’t like being told we can’t have something new and shiny; we always want what the other person has. Now not everyone is like this and I’ll admit to having similar thoughts at times – I have a cute dress but I really want this other one, I have plenty of food at home but it would just be so much easier to stop and grab something from Panera’s. My neighbor in Dombe spends the entire day preparing food, cleaning dishes, washing clothes, caring for children. She has got to go to bed absolutely exhausted every night and yet she always has a smile on her face and a minute to help Mona and I start carvão or prepare feijao for our dinner. If anyone deserves more money or a beachfront vacation home it’s her. Not those staunchy old NFL team owners or the rich Republican Congressmen who can’ comprehend that organizations like Planned Parenthood actually help manage the population and future spending.

I’m sorry it took moving to Moçambique to get this clear view of things but I’m sure glad I have some perspective and a new appreciation for the simple things. Maybe we should require people to serve two years in the Peace Corps before they can run for office or buy a football team?

Against All Odds - The Postal Service

Waka Waka

So it’s nearly the end of March and I’ve just reached the six months mark. I found a half written letter to my uncle the other day from early November (once I realized how expensive the mail system was I gave up my goal of long hand letters, sorry folks) and reminisced as I reread those fears and apprehensions after being in country for a month. I still have my language struggles and miss home all the time but I can communicate, I have a purpose and feel connected to the community. I have a home now and friends and inside jokes.

Speaking of the new house, I really wish I could post some pictures but my computer died and I currently don’t have a way to transfer them off my camera but maybe in a few weeks at our reconnect conference. Either way, the new place is wonderful. It’s back from the old oven house in a different row amongst the barrio dos professores. And since its situated further back there are more trees blocking the sun which makes the house a good 10 degrees cooler than the other one. We also each have half of the duplex so we can finally settle in and personalize the space. We each have a sala (living/family/front room) and a quarto (bedroom) with doors to the outside in opposite corners. There is a “door” between the sala and quarto on each side which is actually just a space cut out of the dividing wall. I plan on making a curtain door to get a little separation but it’s not a high priority at the moment. Our dealings with the slimy carpenter were well worth it as the big windows provide good ventilation and create some light crosswinds. I am also going to get curtains made for them as my neighbors can currently see into my house at all times. I still don’t have any furniture but am going to talk to the Dombe carpenter this week about getting a bookshelf, wardrobe type thing and maybe a table made. Apparently he is not capable of making bed frames (multiple people had tried and it’s usually a disaster) so we’ll have to get those in Sussendenga and arrange to get them back in the back of a truck. I’ve been able to go through and organize my stuff but am still pretty much living out of suitcases and boxes. I did however paint my side blue (it’s definitely Carolina blue but I’ve gotten over that because it makes the house so light and open) with a darker blue stripe along the bottom.

The big tree out front provides nice shade and the quintal (backyard) will eventually have a fence of some sort around it. Our casa do banho is in sad shape at the moment – you have to put your capulana over the entrance or everyone in the area can see you and I’m just barely short enough to avoid having to duck to be concealed by the walls. Our latrine is our biggest problem as we’re fairly sure it’s going to cave in. Mona and I found out that if we speak loud enough we can hear each other through the walls and it’s become custom to warn the other person if you’re headed out the latrine so they’ll know that a scream means you’ve fallen in. We’re being slightly dramatic but it’s like a little gamble every time you go in, makes life exciting I suppose. Although Mona’s notified me that if she ends up in the latrine it’s a new beach side house or a ticket back to America for her. I may be left alone in the Dombe if we don’t get it fixed soon! But we have talked to the DAP (Directora da Pedagogica) and she is working out the logistics for getting our cement casa do banho/latrine figured out. Maybe it will all be done by the time I can post pictures and I can do a real before-and-after show and tell.

Not much else happening besides teaching and dealing with the ridiculous heat. Our neighbors are all wonderful and make sure we eat properly (which usually entails us eating with them) and get a few luxurious cold sodas every week. A big group of the central volunteers (those of us in Manica, Sofala and Tete) and a couple from the north met up this weekend at a retreat of sorts to celebrate a birthday. Casa Msika is just 46km outside Chimoio on the edge of Lake Chicamba near a dam (http://www.casamsika.com/). It was beautiful and open and very relaxing. You can’t actually swim in the lake due to wildlife but the infinity type pool overlooks the hills and water. As usual we ate amazing food, played ridiculous games and drank in the comfort of our anonymity. That website has good Google map of the area but the pictures don't work so I got these from Audrey's facebook:



poolside cakes



it was a D-themed party in honor of Diana



feeding the crocs



I suppose that’s about it for now. I have yet to get my good mattress but my back is doing well and rarely hurts or is tight at all. I gave my first test and despite warnings from all MOZ 14ers had a small percentage actually pass and was slightly depressed. But life goes on and the adventure continues!

P.S. I’m going on record for the first time to say that I am officially coming back to Colorado for three weeks this June and I’m proposing to all those outside of Colorado that you plan a trip to see me! It’s just an idea but otherwise it will be a long year and a half before you’ll get the chance again. Of course you could also visit me here in Moz but I’m fairly certain its cheaper to get to Colorado!

P.S.S. I posted this once of Facebook but watched it again last night with some fellow PCVs and just had to get it out there again. I just die everytime! Happy 50^th Peace Corps!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-wDq17zyN0

Waka Waka - Shakira (I've been having a lot of "Holy crap I'm in Africa" moments lately, so This Time For Africa!)

We No Speak Americano

My first week back at site after my month long medical mystery was successful. I had to go at in alone since Mona got the dreaded malaria and spent the week in Chimoio doped up on meds, but I think I handled it quite well. Don’t get me wrong, I am by no means actually alone in the mato.  My fellow teachers are always around, trying to stuff me full of rice and xima and random vegetables, and the students are around all day, but I had to go about the day-to-day household activities by myself. Even when there we were together, Mona and I rarely fired up the carvão more than once a day, but it’s frustrating when you just can’t seem to get it lit and you can’t pass it off for the other person to try. I will forever be grateful for the people who invented the electric and gas stoves. Carvão sucks. But I made food, I planned my lessons, wrote a test for next week, went to the market, swept the house, worked with the painters to get my side of the house painted (it’s done!!), fixed the make shift mosquito net on the back window every night, killed some bugs (Dad, you would be proud of this spider killing machine!), read 3 books in as many days and even taught an English lesson. It was a productive week. And I learned some valuable lessons: I can and will kill spiders if there’s no one else around, I am really glad I’m not an English teacher and I’m lucky to have a roommate because I would not want to do this whole tour alone!

On a completely different topic, I want to thank everyone again who has sent me care packages so far. It’s impossible to truly describe how wonderful it is to come to Chimoio after weeks at site or weeks away on medical stuff and see so many things waiting for me! I used one of the three big bags of Starbursts I got as prizes for the winning team during a label-the-cell review game I did this week. They were a hit. I actually had kids trying to sneak into my later classes to try and get candy again! I am loving the American snacks and candies and foods. Oh and my dad and Mary sent me some clothes I requested and I can’t tell you how amazing they smelled – just like dryer sheets! I almost don’t want to wear them so they won’t lose that washer-drier cleanness. And Jean and Charlie’s sweet solar flashlight makes my electricity-less house a little brighter each night! You guys are all amazing!

Next on my agenda is to start moving into my new house and getting some furniture made. I’m looking forward to eventually having an actual bed frame. It’s the little things in lifeJ

We No Speak Americano - Yolanda Be Cool & DCUP (No particular significance to this one. I hear it atleast 3 times a day and just love it! You should all check it out. It's rather addictive.)

Rise & Shine

Aren't you all just so lucky to get three posts in such a short period of time!? Well don't get used to it because I am headed back to Dombe tomorrow!

Everything went well in Maputo and I got cleared to go back to site.  I enjoyed Maputo more than I thought I would but was over the noise and commotion and heat. Its just like any other "big city" where all the pavement, cement and buildings make it feel hotter and I miss the tranquility of the mato. Not to mention the fact that my students haven't had a biology lesson in like three weeks (no substitute teachers here). I'm excited to get back into the swing of things. And another big plus is that Mona and I's house is finally ready! We are buying more paint in Chimoio so we can paint our rooms and then we can move in. Y'all have no idea how big this is. But after living in the oven for three months we need some space to unpack, settle in and breathe! My computer died a couple weeks ago and I don't have a transfer cord for my camera right now but I'll be taking more pictures and I promise to get some up some how in the next month or so.

Thanks again to the amazing people who have sent me packages and mail. Its really an amazing feeling to open a box of goodies and get a little piece of the sender as well. Everyone back there has been so supportive of me and It means the world to me! I love you guys!

Rise & Shine - Guster