Against All Odds

Looking back over the past month or so, many exciting things have happened in the lives of my friends and family. Two of my fellow MOZ15ers got engaged, my best friend and her husband celebrated nine months with their beautiful baby boy, my brother and my dad have been planning weddings and my cousin brought a gorgeous little girl into this world. Those are big life changes in my book. The most exciting things in my life are sleeping through the night without back pain and being able to sit inside my house during the day. I’m noticing some differences between these two lists of highlights.  When did a cold bottle of water become worthy of a 10km walk in the African heat? How is that a bar of chocolate can make me happier than a kid on Christmas? And all it takes is a hot shower for me to feel “made-up” and “dressy”? How simple my life has become.

Looking back I remember telling myself multiple times that I was going to simplify my life. I specifically remember standing in Rachel Toman’s dorm room in Cornerstone after our freshman year at UNCW – the floor covered in clothes, make-up, shoes and papers. We vowed that we were going to take the opportunity of moving to minimize our lives, to get rid of all the crap we didn’t need. And I really think we tried. But each year I acquired all kinds of stuff that I just couldn’t seem to part with. And now I’m living in a house about the size of that dorm room. I’ve got one suitcase of clothes, a mattress, two boxes of books and other Peace Corps supplies, some basins and buckets, a bike and a water filter. That’s all I really need (although a bed frame would be nice) and sometimes even that seems excessive. I look around at the kids wearing the same dirty clothes they wore the day before and feel bad that I have so many options everyday, that my clothes don’t have holes in them and that sometimes I wish for more clothes simply so I can do laundry less frequently. Peace Corps says that we will live at the level of our community but I often feel awfully wealthy.

The NFL lockout and the government’s almost shutdown are all about money. Yes, the U.S. government is ridiculously in debt and we do need to figure out how to best deal with that, but tell someone here in Moz that the U.S. is several trillion dollars in debt and they will look at you blankly. The people around me can’t even fathom that much money. I was disgusted as I read about the issues between the players and owners before the lockout occurred. These multi-million and billionaires were fighting over more money without any thought for other people affected by their decisions. Rick Reilly’s column a few weeks ago summed it up nicely (and humorously) as to who else is affected by this stalled season (http://espn.go.com/blog/rick-reilly-go-fish/post/_/id/855/nfl-labor-decision-winners-and-losers). And a New York Times op-ed piece (http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/10/opinion/10kristof.html?scp=1&sq=cowardly%20congress&st=cse) about Congress dealing with the budget states it perfectly – we’re dealing with junior high kids with too much power. Petty issues are interfering with more serious matters.

I have a unique perspective out here in the mato but it shouldn’t take a move to Africa to understand what’s going on here.  America is self-centered and selfish. We have access to anything and everything and don’t like being told we can’t have something new and shiny; we always want what the other person has. Now not everyone is like this and I’ll admit to having similar thoughts at times – I have a cute dress but I really want this other one, I have plenty of food at home but it would just be so much easier to stop and grab something from Panera’s. My neighbor in Dombe spends the entire day preparing food, cleaning dishes, washing clothes, caring for children. She has got to go to bed absolutely exhausted every night and yet she always has a smile on her face and a minute to help Mona and I start carvão or prepare feijao for our dinner. If anyone deserves more money or a beachfront vacation home it’s her. Not those staunchy old NFL team owners or the rich Republican Congressmen who can’ comprehend that organizations like Planned Parenthood actually help manage the population and future spending.

I’m sorry it took moving to Moçambique to get this clear view of things but I’m sure glad I have some perspective and a new appreciation for the simple things. Maybe we should require people to serve two years in the Peace Corps before they can run for office or buy a football team?

Against All Odds - The Postal Service

Waka Waka

So it’s nearly the end of March and I’ve just reached the six months mark. I found a half written letter to my uncle the other day from early November (once I realized how expensive the mail system was I gave up my goal of long hand letters, sorry folks) and reminisced as I reread those fears and apprehensions after being in country for a month. I still have my language struggles and miss home all the time but I can communicate, I have a purpose and feel connected to the community. I have a home now and friends and inside jokes.

Speaking of the new house, I really wish I could post some pictures but my computer died and I currently don’t have a way to transfer them off my camera but maybe in a few weeks at our reconnect conference. Either way, the new place is wonderful. It’s back from the old oven house in a different row amongst the barrio dos professores. And since its situated further back there are more trees blocking the sun which makes the house a good 10 degrees cooler than the other one. We also each have half of the duplex so we can finally settle in and personalize the space. We each have a sala (living/family/front room) and a quarto (bedroom) with doors to the outside in opposite corners. There is a “door” between the sala and quarto on each side which is actually just a space cut out of the dividing wall. I plan on making a curtain door to get a little separation but it’s not a high priority at the moment. Our dealings with the slimy carpenter were well worth it as the big windows provide good ventilation and create some light crosswinds. I am also going to get curtains made for them as my neighbors can currently see into my house at all times. I still don’t have any furniture but am going to talk to the Dombe carpenter this week about getting a bookshelf, wardrobe type thing and maybe a table made. Apparently he is not capable of making bed frames (multiple people had tried and it’s usually a disaster) so we’ll have to get those in Sussendenga and arrange to get them back in the back of a truck. I’ve been able to go through and organize my stuff but am still pretty much living out of suitcases and boxes. I did however paint my side blue (it’s definitely Carolina blue but I’ve gotten over that because it makes the house so light and open) with a darker blue stripe along the bottom.

The big tree out front provides nice shade and the quintal (backyard) will eventually have a fence of some sort around it. Our casa do banho is in sad shape at the moment – you have to put your capulana over the entrance or everyone in the area can see you and I’m just barely short enough to avoid having to duck to be concealed by the walls. Our latrine is our biggest problem as we’re fairly sure it’s going to cave in. Mona and I found out that if we speak loud enough we can hear each other through the walls and it’s become custom to warn the other person if you’re headed out the latrine so they’ll know that a scream means you’ve fallen in. We’re being slightly dramatic but it’s like a little gamble every time you go in, makes life exciting I suppose. Although Mona’s notified me that if she ends up in the latrine it’s a new beach side house or a ticket back to America for her. I may be left alone in the Dombe if we don’t get it fixed soon! But we have talked to the DAP (Directora da Pedagogica) and she is working out the logistics for getting our cement casa do banho/latrine figured out. Maybe it will all be done by the time I can post pictures and I can do a real before-and-after show and tell.

Not much else happening besides teaching and dealing with the ridiculous heat. Our neighbors are all wonderful and make sure we eat properly (which usually entails us eating with them) and get a few luxurious cold sodas every week. A big group of the central volunteers (those of us in Manica, Sofala and Tete) and a couple from the north met up this weekend at a retreat of sorts to celebrate a birthday. Casa Msika is just 46km outside Chimoio on the edge of Lake Chicamba near a dam (http://www.casamsika.com/). It was beautiful and open and very relaxing. You can’t actually swim in the lake due to wildlife but the infinity type pool overlooks the hills and water. As usual we ate amazing food, played ridiculous games and drank in the comfort of our anonymity. That website has good Google map of the area but the pictures don't work so I got these from Audrey's facebook:



poolside cakes



it was a D-themed party in honor of Diana



feeding the crocs



I suppose that’s about it for now. I have yet to get my good mattress but my back is doing well and rarely hurts or is tight at all. I gave my first test and despite warnings from all MOZ 14ers had a small percentage actually pass and was slightly depressed. But life goes on and the adventure continues!

P.S. I’m going on record for the first time to say that I am officially coming back to Colorado for three weeks this June and I’m proposing to all those outside of Colorado that you plan a trip to see me! It’s just an idea but otherwise it will be a long year and a half before you’ll get the chance again. Of course you could also visit me here in Moz but I’m fairly certain its cheaper to get to Colorado!

P.S.S. I posted this once of Facebook but watched it again last night with some fellow PCVs and just had to get it out there again. I just die everytime! Happy 50^th Peace Corps!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-wDq17zyN0

Waka Waka - Shakira (I've been having a lot of "Holy crap I'm in Africa" moments lately, so This Time For Africa!)

We No Speak Americano

My first week back at site after my month long medical mystery was successful. I had to go at in alone since Mona got the dreaded malaria and spent the week in Chimoio doped up on meds, but I think I handled it quite well. Don’t get me wrong, I am by no means actually alone in the mato.  My fellow teachers are always around, trying to stuff me full of rice and xima and random vegetables, and the students are around all day, but I had to go about the day-to-day household activities by myself. Even when there we were together, Mona and I rarely fired up the carvão more than once a day, but it’s frustrating when you just can’t seem to get it lit and you can’t pass it off for the other person to try. I will forever be grateful for the people who invented the electric and gas stoves. Carvão sucks. But I made food, I planned my lessons, wrote a test for next week, went to the market, swept the house, worked with the painters to get my side of the house painted (it’s done!!), fixed the make shift mosquito net on the back window every night, killed some bugs (Dad, you would be proud of this spider killing machine!), read 3 books in as many days and even taught an English lesson. It was a productive week. And I learned some valuable lessons: I can and will kill spiders if there’s no one else around, I am really glad I’m not an English teacher and I’m lucky to have a roommate because I would not want to do this whole tour alone!

On a completely different topic, I want to thank everyone again who has sent me care packages so far. It’s impossible to truly describe how wonderful it is to come to Chimoio after weeks at site or weeks away on medical stuff and see so many things waiting for me! I used one of the three big bags of Starbursts I got as prizes for the winning team during a label-the-cell review game I did this week. They were a hit. I actually had kids trying to sneak into my later classes to try and get candy again! I am loving the American snacks and candies and foods. Oh and my dad and Mary sent me some clothes I requested and I can’t tell you how amazing they smelled – just like dryer sheets! I almost don’t want to wear them so they won’t lose that washer-drier cleanness. And Jean and Charlie’s sweet solar flashlight makes my electricity-less house a little brighter each night! You guys are all amazing!

Next on my agenda is to start moving into my new house and getting some furniture made. I’m looking forward to eventually having an actual bed frame. It’s the little things in lifeJ

We No Speak Americano - Yolanda Be Cool & DCUP (No particular significance to this one. I hear it atleast 3 times a day and just love it! You should all check it out. It's rather addictive.)

Rise & Shine

Aren't you all just so lucky to get three posts in such a short period of time!? Well don't get used to it because I am headed back to Dombe tomorrow!

Everything went well in Maputo and I got cleared to go back to site.  I enjoyed Maputo more than I thought I would but was over the noise and commotion and heat. Its just like any other "big city" where all the pavement, cement and buildings make it feel hotter and I miss the tranquility of the mato. Not to mention the fact that my students haven't had a biology lesson in like three weeks (no substitute teachers here). I'm excited to get back into the swing of things. And another big plus is that Mona and I's house is finally ready! We are buying more paint in Chimoio so we can paint our rooms and then we can move in. Y'all have no idea how big this is. But after living in the oven for three months we need some space to unpack, settle in and breathe! My computer died a couple weeks ago and I don't have a transfer cord for my camera right now but I'll be taking more pictures and I promise to get some up some how in the next month or so.

Thanks again to the amazing people who have sent me packages and mail. Its really an amazing feeling to open a box of goodies and get a little piece of the sender as well. Everyone back there has been so supportive of me and It means the world to me! I love you guys!

Rise & Shine - Guster

Things I never thought I’d see in Moçambique*:

   *Disclaimer – these were seen in Maputo so it’s a slightly biased survey.

1. Escola de condução (by the way people drive in this country I definitely didn’t think they had driver’s ed)

2. A McDonald's cup (a cruel, cruel joke for this fountain diet coke addict)

3. A walking club/ personal trainer

4. Kids on rollerblades with helmets and wrist guards



yea, like that. except Mocambiquen and on a trashier looking sidewalk



5. Dog trainer (A Moçambiquen teaching an old Portuguese guy how to walk and control his dog)

To be continued...

Three Little Birds

I just wanted to post a quick update about life. I am down in Maputo for medical right now but am doing fine. I was having crazy back pain and trouble breathing during the night and in the morning and nothing seemed to be working. I saw a doctor in Chimoio and got all kinds of tests done but still nothing definite. The Peace Corps doctor finally flew me down here to see a specialist and get to the bottom of this medical mystery. This doc (I was hoping for House but got this quirky German guy who speaks like 6 languages but told me not to learn German unless I really have to) thinks it might be inflammation at the transverse process of my thoracic spine where the lower ribs come in. Now I don’t really know if that’s correct or if I am even using the right words, but I do know that it should be something treatable. I am now getting physiotherapy everyday which is a combination of ultrasound, electrotherapy and massage. I’m definitely not going to complain about a daily back massage but I want to get back to Dombe and school and my students.  I will be down here for at least another week and then hopefully this will have done the trick. But like I said, I’m doing well. I’m stuffing myself full of Thai food, ice cream, pizza, pastries and draft beer before I have to return to the mato diet at site! And there have been MOZ 14ers coming through for their mid-service medical checkups so I haven’t been alone and depressed in my hotel all the time. I was actually out until 1am a couple days ago – so see I’m not dying!

Oh and my hand is healing nicely and other than some slightly pinker skin you can barely tell anything even happened.

 

 

 

 

 

Three Little Birds - Bob Marley

Fresh Feeling



So I’m at the two month mark at site and it’s been an adventure. Mona and I are still in our temporary house, much to our dismay, but the new house is truly almost finished. Hopefully we can get in and paint this week and start moving in. Between the holidays and issues getting our windows made, we were away from site for nearly three weeks. When we first saw the new house we knew we’d need some bigger windows. You’ll understand when I eventually get pictures up, but we decided we were willing to pay for them if it meant not suffocating. With the help of our sleazy old director we found a carpenter in Chimoio to make us four meter by meter windows with screens and glass. Turns out he was as shady as ol’ Rui and we nearly took him to court! It was a ridiculous situation that involved threats, name calling and a trip to the police station. Let’s just say I’ve seen enough to know that I don’t want to be on the wrong side of the law here. Think of the show Locked Up Abroad. Creepy.  Anyway, we finally got the windows and they were put into the house last weekend. One step closer!





First Day of School!





And then of course school started on January 18^th and we are now three weeks in. The school is really nice too. There are three blocks of salas (rooms) and the newest one has a library and laboratory. I don’t think there is any equipment in the lab yet but it’s a start and the library is pretty decent considering. Every classroom has a big chalkboard and all the kids have desks.  We are lucky enough to have classes with just 40-50 students because some schools up north have over 100 students per class and not enough space.  Our pedagogical director is on top of things and is really involved with the kids and keeping them in line and accountable. Overall it’s a good situation. I’m teaching 8^th grade biology which of course is all in Portuguese and I was so nervous my students would ask me something and I wouldn’t understand or be able to answer their questions. I proceeded to write out every word I wanted to say and even anticipated possible questions. Needless to say, they were silent; a sea of blank stares looking back at me while I explained the scientific method.  I’ve given aulas (lessons) on the scientific method, characteristics of all living things, prokaryotic vs. eukaryotic cells, animal vs. plant cells, levels of organization and the five taxonomical kingdoms (I definitely learned it as six kingdoms but apparently in Moçambique they only recognize five. I figured it best not to rock the boat this early). I still write out everything but I’m getting more confident and by the last session I don’t have to use my notes as much. The frustrating part is the lack of participation from the students. I ask if they have questions and I get silence. They say they understand when I ask, but who really knows. I think they just say what they think I want to hear. The first test is week after next so I guess I’ll find out then.

Despite the frustrations, I am enjoying teaching. There are some really sharp kids (I had a girl explain sexual versus asexual reproduction better than I could) and I can tell I’m getting through to a few of them. My lessons aren’t exactly thrilling at this point but I think I can find ways to spice it up when we get into the body systems. The school actually has posters and charts showing the human body and the various systems; which is good because as most of you know I am no artist (my animal and plants cells turned out well though!). I’ll keep ya’ll updated on how school progresses.

In other news, I’m currently in Chimoio on medical hold due to back issues and my newly burnt hand.  The back thing is a giant mystery at this point but my hand is supposedly healing well. Hopefully we’ll get everything settled soon so I can get back to Dombe and back to teaching.

a Mocambiquen style picture



Fresh Feeling - Eels